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Puligny-Montrachet


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Puligny-Montrachet is a commune of about 2.8 square miles that, along with Chassagne-Montrachet, contains much of the best land for white wine in the world. All of Puligny's Grand Cru land is classified Bâtard-Montrachet, Montrachet, Chevalier-Montrachet, or Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, the four Grands Crus that Puligny-Montrachet is involved with. Puligny-Montrachet has a share of the first two, and the last two lie completely within its boundaries.

Although Chassagne-Montrachet has far fewer Premiers Crus than Chassagne-Montrachet, they are probably roughly equal in importance. Both are considered to be among the top two white wine villages in the world. Although similar in style, there are a few key differences between the two; Chassagne wine is usually slightly less intense and concentrated, but often has more of a buttery richness. The Pulignys tend to be slightly more masculine in style.

Of the 513 acres of vineyards that make wine to be labeled Puligny-Montrachet, no less than 219 of these acres produce Premier Cru Puligny-Montrachet. This distribution is similar to Chassagne-Montrachet. From a select few Premiers Crus, the wine can range up nearly to Grand Cru-level wine in concentration and depth. Even the village wine can be extremely good, as an entry-level way to try great Chardonnay. Most of the time it is simple-minded in style, but has the same pleasant balance of minerals and fruit that all great whites do.

History

Like Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet was approved for AOC in 1970, and a number of regulations were then set into place. Strangely, red wines from Pinot Noir are allowed; they are so unimportant that there are practically no legitimately good examples.

The 1976 Judgement of Paris contained one Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru white wine, a Domaine Leflaive from the Les Pucelles Premier Cru. It was one of four white Burgundies to lose out to the 1973 vintage of the Californian winery Chateau Montelena. The controversial Judgement would have a humongous influence, and Puligny-Montrachet's failure to prove themselves superior to up-and-coming California made the Burgundy market slump for years. The eventual recovery has had Puligny-Montrachet in front all the way, although new trends favoring red wine have made the entire Côte de Beaune less popular.

Climate and Viticulture

The Puligny-Montrachet land not only has the best weather conditions and shelter from the wind due to the surrounding hills, but also some of the richest, most diverse soil in all of Burgundy--and that's saying a lot! While the most important and distinct vineyards are without fail classified as Grand Cru, making for four Grand Cru vineyards in Puligny-Montrachet, there are still a number of tremendous vineyards classified as Premier Cru. Most of these vineyards have a slope that, while not as optimal as the Grand Cru slopes, lends more character to the wine. While still inferior to those of Montrachet or Bâtard-Montrachet, these vineyards still are good enough to create wine that displays great complexity, masterful roundness, and power.

Grape Varieties

Major Producers

Here is a list of the leading Puligny-Montrachet producers. Note that no "boutique" producers are listed here; it is one of our requirements that these wines must be reasonably affordable and available to the average person. Most of the boutique producers in fact concentrate on their Grand Cru holdings, so most of the Puligny wines will not be nearly as overpriced.

The Puligny-Montrachet climate is so good, and regulations on the area so strict, that a good reputation has been forcefully cultivated for the name. As a result, few inferior Chardonnays come from this village, and those that do are often suspiciously inexpensive. Négociant-bottled wine is virtually always reliable. Of the few red offerings, the only distinguished ones come from Domaine Jean Chartron; both the regular and old vine examples are good.

We selected a total of 19 producers, whose wines are talked about below. Boillot is a "fragmented" domaine, with many different wines coming from the various Boillot names. This scenario is confusing, but in the below subregions section we attempt to avoid ambiguosity when talking about them. For this list Boillot is counted as one producer.

Subregions

The subregions of Puligny-Montrachet are generally more clear-cut than those of Chassagne-Montrachet. At the first level are the village wines, which are often better than the Premier Cru wines of other villages and are almost always more expensive. Then there is the lieu-dit level; in Puligny-Montrachet there are few of these. The only one worth mentioning is Les Ensegneres. Girardin and Verget have good property here, but this happens to be Coche-Dury's leading wine and as a result these exotic, buttery wines remain better than several lower-end Premier Cru wines.

Here is a list of the 17 Premiers Crus in Puligny-Montrachet, with descriptions of the wines made there by the best producers.

Puligny-Montrachet has a share of two Grands Crus and the entirety of two more.